October 2004


“Ani ohe-VET oh-KHEL pa-SHOOT.”
“I like simple food.”

I witnessed some serious high-wire crepe-making this morning at the Friday morning food fair at the mall. After dragging myself away from the baklava stand, I stood and watched the crepe woman, trying to see what her pattern was. She was making crepes the size of carriage wheels.

Here’s how she did it:
–Ten palm-sized discs of dough were arrayed on a layer of cornmeal(?) in a circular tin tray in front of her; since it was about 10:00 am, with mall-goers lining up four deep at her stand, her supply was diminishing and there were little pockets of space on the tray.

–A word about the crepe woman: her head is covered with a long white scarf, and she looks about seventy years old; her face is creased with wrinkles, but doesn’t sag. She wears a dark longsleeve dress, covered by an apron. She is in charge of crepe creation; her son, to her left, supervises the crepe decoration and formation, and wields an impressive selection of jams and cheeses. Where is she from? She doesn’t seem to speak Hebrew, turning away one customer with an apologetic shrug when she was left to run the stand while her son ran to get more change. She’s less enigmatic than reserved and private. The simplicity of this food is silent and complex.

–She takes the disk of dough and rounds it out, flattening it slightly, on another tray in front of her. When it’s about the size of a saucer, she starts to thin it out by tossing it, but not pizza-dough style. She twirls the dough over the top of her hands and passes it back under, moving so fast that the dough looks like a dervish’s skirt.

–The windowpane-thin dough floats off her hands and lands on a huge hot, domed skillet resting on a drum next to her. It’s about the size of a Parisian chestnut roaster’s grill-on-wheels. The dough instantly blisters and bubbles and she flips it over with her bare hands. Another second or two and it’s done. Then she peels it off, quickly, and sets it to rest on a small pillow. (This part, I love.)

–Then her son takes over, with far less magic, I think, spreading thin cream cheese on the crepe with a knife.

I’d argue that this is not the kind of food one takes a knife to.

“Ha-meet-ree-YAH.”
“The umbrella.”

(Incidentally, “umbrella” is one of the very last entries in this fantastically handy little book. The very last entry? Why, that’s “wool,” the only thing which you would need here even less than an umbrella.)

This just might be it: the beginning of fall. Never mind the gardenias blooming all over campus, or the fact that it was 89 degrees in Tel Aviv, yesterday. More significantly: last night after dinner, as we were appraising gift #32 (a fleece blanket) from the Wedding Gift Fairy (who is partial to the “Golf” household goods store in the Rehovot mall), I heard a strange noise outside, like pebbles falling.

No, not pebbles. Rain! Forty drops or so! I went a little bit nuts. (I did not, however, as I previously threatened to do, run around on the lawn in my skivvies.) By the time we had wrestled the heavy outer door open, and I ran onto the patio, the sole rain cloud had passed. But there were more clouds.

The Ha’aretz forecast for the rest of the week is the loveliest prose I’ve read for months: “Wednesday will be warmer than seasonal and partly cloudy, with possible light showers. Thursday will be slightly cooler and more humid, also with showers. Toward evening rain will arrive in most parts of the country, with some flooding possible. Friday will be partly cloudy, noticeably colder, with scattered showers. Saturday will be partly cloudy. Three-day forecast: Thursday: Rain; Friday: Rain; Saturday: Partly Cloudy.”

“Cooler?” “Showers?” “Flooding?” (Well, let’s not get carried away.)

“Shalom, hashem shelit…”
“Hello, my name is…”

…Much Happier. At the first official Hebrew-language class last night, we beginners were herded into a break room (fishbowl) and met our new teacher. HaHA! What a relief.

Our new teacher, Sahar, has taught for 35 years. She navigates the classroom as though it were deck of a smoothly-operating flight carrier, with everyone landing smoothly and everything in place. Perhaps the military metaphor seems askew in the teaching context, but she has great control and everyone seems to be learning at the same pace…which is pretty remarkable. Short, with straight, short black hair, and a kind demeanor, she went around reassuring everyone before class that we would indeed have a classroom, once someone arrived with the key.

A few new faces appeared last night, including a Chinese postdoc and his son, who sat near the front of the room, looking and murmuring to each other in Chinese when Sahar asked either of them a question. The son is about eleven or twelve years old, and probably attends school locally, hearing Hebrew all day; he veered between being extremely confident, bored, and mischevious, during class. After Sahar unrolled a world map and plastered it on the board, she asked each of us to come up and identify our home countries and cities. When she asked the Chinese postdoc where he was from, he rose from his seat, spotted his son (who had popped up as Dad’s pinch hitter), and gratefully moved to sit back down.

“Lo, lo!” Sahar beckoned to him, gently steering the postdoc’s son back to his seat and propelling the father toward the blackboard in one fluid movement. “No, you must do it.” With his son coaching in Chinese from his seat, the father eventually found their hometown.

Sahar taught us the word for big (“gedel”) by contrasting a picture of Ehud Barak (former Prime Minister) with Ariel Sharon, whose girth she impersonated by holding her hands way out from her side.

The class responded much better to Sahar than our initial teacher; this time, people felt confident enough to ask questions.

“Why is ‘ir bira,’ ‘capitol city,’ and ‘bira,’ ‘beer’?” one guy asked. “Doesn’t that get confusing?”

“No,” Sahar replied, smiling beatifically. “There is a rule about that, but we will get to it later.”

“Why isn’t the letter at the end of that word pronounced?” another postdoc asked.

“Yes,” said Sahar, looking at the board. “That, too, is something we will get to later.”

We began to think that everything was “later,” but, by the end of class, everyone was chatting away (albeit on a limited number of subjects) in Hebrew.

###
On Saturday, posters appeared at the intersection outside the Institute’s main gate, strung along the median strip and around one lamppost. They looked like the posters we’d seen in Friday’s edition of Haaretz, in the “Week’s End” section, which–with its extensive political-analysis articles–seems to be modelled after the Times’s “Week in Review” section. One of the articles was accompanied by photographs of various protests for and against Sharon’s proposal to disengage from Gaza; I knew these posters had something to do with the debate, but I was curious to know which side they supported.

Leaving the Institute, we passed through Security, and I asked one of the guards if he could tell me what was on the posters.

He was balding, and squinted to see the posters across the street. The colors of the Israeli flag were the background for two lines of text in Hebrew, one of which ended with an exclamation point. The guard looked back at me, and I couldn’t tell if he was surprised or annoyed (or both) that I had asked him an apparently loaded question. He seemed to think I had asked him what his view was personally.

“It’s about Gaza,” he said, and trailed off. “It’s complicated.” He looked at me as if to indicate that I should be satisfied with that, but I waited for him to continue. Finally, seeing that I wasn’t moving, he said, “It says something about letting the majority decide what to do with the situation.”

I thanked him, and we crossed the street, heading for the cafe, where we sat in full view of the posters. The debate over the settlements in Gaza is reaching crescendo levels: should the settlers leave? Should they be compensated (some upwards of $300,000–more if they opt for the incentive-laden Negev-desert/Galilee-resettlement choice)? Will they leave? Will the extremist factions threaten Sharon? It’s strange to be in a place where the national debate is so focused, and the results will play out within months, not years. Of course, my sense of the political process is hardly informed, since I get the majority of my news from sources distanced from the action (the New York Times and the BBC).

You couldn’t pay me enough to move to the desert.

”Ayn lee mah luh-hats-HEER.”
“I have nothing to declare.”

This past week’s orientation meeting for the Ulpan classes was a baffling introduction to Israeli pedagogy. At 5:20 pm, I showed up ten minutes before class was scheduled to start. The room was dark, and the teachers were still smoking outside. Finally, the two women exhaled, stubbed out their cigarettes, and walked inside, where they noticed me. “Are you here for the Ulpan?” the shorter one asked. I nodded.

Ten minutes later, I was one of two students in the room. Like the good graduate student I used to be, I had dutifully taken a seat in the second row, and produced a pen and a small notebook. What a nerd I was, but, then, I had long ago come to terms with that. And, anyway, wasn’t this so-called nerd paradise? It turns out that, even among extremely bright scientists, there exists the same social-grouping-trends and instant labeling that most people think doesn’t exist outside of high school. Wrong. Once a nerd, always a nerd. I exuded so much nerdiness that the cool postdocs (the ones who had to ask for paper and who left to answer their cell phones) were careful to sit far away from me.

The teachers examined the classroom as though they had never seen one before; the shorter one tested the sliding vertical dry-erase boards, impressed with the Institute’s amenities. The other wandered by a row of folding seats and raised one eyebrow. “Padded!” she said to me, scandalized. Then she gave me an appraising look, and asked something in Hebrew. I looked back at her.

“Do you speak Hebrew?” she asked. No, I said.

“Can you read or write it?” No, I replied, and thought, That’s where you come in.

Gradually, more students began to arrive; most sat in the last three rows. One fair-haired guy wandered in and started chatting confidently in Hebrew to one of the teachers. Showoff, a small voice inside me said. The shorter teacher, a woman with short black hair, looking lawyer-ish in a purple blazer and black pants, beamed at him. The other teacher strode around the room; she was as tall as I am, and looked as though she were about to lead an aerobics class. Her shirt resembled the front of a Converse sneaker, laced up with a wide shoelace. I thought absently that she would not have passed the James Irwin Charter High School Dress Code for Teachers, or, for that matter, the dress code for students.

Once it looked as though the last of the students had arrived, the shorter teacher cleared her throat and looked at us. We numbered about thirty.

“Shalom, shalom, shalom!” she called out, and then launched into a monologue. In Hebrew.

Half the class understood her, nodding and laughing at what were evidently appropriate spots. The rest of us, including two friends sitting next to me, listened glumly.

The tall teacher eventually turned to us and translated a few words: “First, we will take down your identity numbers. Please give us your passports.” For the next twenty minutes, the tall teacher would stroll around, collect five or six students’ documents, and take them to the other teacher, who then wrote down our names and passport numbers. Then the first teacher would wander back, return that set of documents, and collect another.

In the second row, my friends and I muttered, Would it not be a thousand times more efficient to have us pass that thing around the room and fill it out ourselves?! “This is the way things work here,” said the guy sitting next to me, with a sigh. “Do we really start tonight?” he asked the tall teacher, optimistically retrieving a pack of cigarettes from his bag and looking toward the door. “I mean, for the whole two hours?”

“Yes, of course we start learning tonight,” she replied, lounging against the podium at the front of the room. I could tell he badly wanted to ask, Well, when?

Soon enough. Once the last document had been returned, the first teacher left with our vital statistics. The other teacher introduced herself and whipped out a dry-erase marker.

“Ani Rebekah,” she said, gesturing at herself, and repeating it a few times, for good measure. “Ani me Israel.” Well, that was easy enough. “Me ain at?” she asked each student. Where are you from? We proceeded around the room, revealing the international nature of the Institute’s student body; students hailed from countries including Serbia, Australia, Russia, India, Germany, England, Italy, and Slovakia.

When she got to me, I said, “Ani me America.” She rolled her eyes and said, “America, America.” I waited, wondering if this was a political commentary. She shook her head.

“The U.S.?” I tried. She gestured with her hands: come on, come on. “Colorado?” The rest of the class snickered and I decided that I did not like them very much. My two friends valiantly kept straight faces. What more did she want? My street address?

“America, Africa, Asia,” she said in an exasperated manner, pointing the marker at me. “These are all continents! You cannot be from America. Please! There is North America, South America, Latin America.” She ticked them off on her fingers.

Yes. I was a Continentist. Worse, an Americanist. Whatever you called it, I had committed a Geographical Tragic Flaw. Strike One.

“I am from the United States! Ani me Autsod Habrit!” she insisted, and came over to where I was sitting to make sure I Got It. Cupping her ear at me, she cocked her head. Feeling all of about twelve years old, I repeated the phrase, and when she went back to the board, wrote it in big dark letters in my notebook. Give me a break, I thought. “I’m an American” is my identity. But apparently I had just stuck my big semantic foot in my mouth.

We continued the meet-and-greet session. Rebekah next had people identify their professions. Oh, goody. Everyone in the room was a postdoc. They replied: My profession is biology, physics, mathematics, bioinformatics, chemistry. Then I was up.

My profession is literature, I said. The rest of the class laughed, and Rebekah staggered back as though I had said I was a stripper.

“What?” she asked in disbelief. “Here? At the Institute?” More laughter.

“No.” This was not exactly how I’d pictured things going. How could I have made an enemy of the teacher in the very first hour of class? “I’m not a postdoc,” I explained.

She shrugged, and briskly told me the word for “literature,” which I forget. Siffrit? It sounded like “suffer.” How appropriate. After Rebekah had established where everyone came from, what their profession was, and whether they were married or not, she fired off a stream of Hebrew to the advanced level of the class. From what I understood, they were to jot down a short note that proved they could read and write Hebrew, and then they could leave, while we illiterates learned the alphabet. The advanced ones looked immensely relieved to be rid of us, and scattered. The rest of us gazed forlornly toward the door, but Rebekah pressed onward. She began to write down the first four letters of the alphabet (placing them between two horizontal lines, as though we were learning to write in cursive all over again), then the vowel signs (which aren’t letters in Hebrew, but a series of lines and dots), and short words.

The twelve of us who knew we were resigned to temporary illiteracy started to write down what was on the board in desperation. I squinted and frowned as I tried to distinguish between the formal and informal versions of the unfamiliar letters, and the teacher caught my look.

“What’s wrong?” she demanded. “Are you unhappy? Is the Hebrew alphabet too hard for you?”

Sarcasm, I learned in my first year of teaching high school, is pedagogically destructive to students–not to mention highly insulting, when leveled at adult students. I gave the international mime-gesture for, Heck, no, everything’s fine, thanks kindly for asking, and forced a smile. At this point, I figured my chances were better, not using any language at all. Rebekah turned back to the board, and I had an instant urge to write in my notebook so my friend could see, “Whatever! Like, she is SO mean!” Then I remembered that I was twenty-eight, and twenty-eight-year-olds had to deal with the cranky real world in a responsible, mature way. Twenty weeks of this?

I could hardly wait for recess.

“Nah la-kha-ZOR al zeh.”
“Repeat it, please.”

Just in time to save my language troubles from becoming full-blown neuroses, the Institute’s Ulpan classes begin. The Ulpan classes in town, offered to immigrants, are seriously intensive Hebrew-language sessions; the Institute’s are rumored to be slightly less demanding. Two hours of class, two times a week, for five months. I ought to be able to read at least the headlines after that.

Orientation and the placement test occur tomorrow night, although I would prefer to skip the test and start from scratch. Failing the first test of the class isn’t exactly motivating.

Pardon me while I go make room in my brain for the next five months’ worth of Hebrew lessons. Norman-Conquest-1066, Articles of the Constitution, tenets of Romanticism, and U2 lyrics, you can all stay; “We Are the World” lyrics, the terms “East Germany” and “West Germany,” and the recipe for my favorite dessert as a seven-year-old (Vanilla Wafer Banana Surprise), you can go. Thank you for playing.

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